Customs and Traditions: Celebrating the Holidays like an Italian 

If you are spending time in Italy for the holidays, consider yourself fortunato/a! And if you’re dreaming of the magical Boot from afar, you’re not the only one. In honor of the most merry time of year, learn about some of Italy’s most historical and quirky customs and traditions for the holiday season!

Rocking Around the Christmas Tree 

Although city squares and mom-and-pop shops may hang their twinkly lights earlier than the beginning of December, most Italian families wait until the 8th for tree cutting, ornament hanging, and festival music playing. The 8th of December in Italy is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. It is commonly reserved for a day when Italians decorate the tree as it is a national public holiday. Many families have the day off. This day also “kick-starts” the month-long festivities and holiday cheer! 

Presepi 

Throughout the month, from small hillside towns to big chaotic cities paint the town in spirit, setting up artisanal markets, baking seasonal goods, and presepi AKA nativity scenes. These presepi have deep roots in Italy, a tradition dating back to St. Francis of Assisi in 1223. However, aside from St. Francis, the annual tradition of creating a presepi has a deep history in southern cities like Naples, where presepi are taken as an art form, often highly detailed, and elaborate, including hundreds of figures from bakers and shepherds to villagers and animals. Often hand-carved and designed by artisans themselves, many cities host exhibits, display shows, and even live nativity scenes to enjoy these works of art in person. 

La Vigilia di Natale 

The eve of Christmas, December 24th, is known in Italy as La Vigilia di Natale and is the opener for food feasts for the next three days. Most Italian families reserve a multi-course dinner for seafood. A biblical tradition or not, courses include plates like baccalà, seafood salad, pasta and clams, smoked salmon or muscles, and much more. Each region has its seafood specialty on the table, and the southern-coastal towns tend to have the largest seafood spread, going as far as lining up in the early hours of the morning (I am talking 2 or 3 am) to have a first-hand at their fish selection at the local outdoor markets. 

Don’t expect la Vigilia to be over after an hour or two. Most households are up celebrating until midnight and beyond.With full bellies and even fuller hearts, some traditional Catholic families (again, many stemming from the Southern tip of the peninsula) even venture out to attend midnight mass. Others enjoy dessert (and yes, panettone and pandoro are included!), espresso, and present opening. However, in the spirit of Babbo Natale (Santa Clause), younger children wait until Christmas morning to open presents. 

Buona Fortuna & Buon Anno 

Along with wives' tales, folklore, and superstitions, Italians are always looking for ways to get extra lucky. New Year's Eve and New Year’s is the perfect time to practice some of these good-luck tales and traditions. New Year’s Eve’s dinner is just as important as staying up to watch the ball drop at midnight. The typical meal includes Cotechino, a type of fatty pork sausage, and lentils, both believed to bring good fortune, wealth, and prosperity for the coming year. Another equally as important and popular tradition is to wear red underwear on New Year’s Eve. The color red is believed to bring good luck and drive away evil spirits in the coming year, and a week or two leading up to the big night, many shops and street vendors sell red-colored underwear for everyone in the family. 

La Befana

Gift-giving and surprise treats don’t stop when Babbo Natale comes to town. Legend has it says there is also a little old witch who rides on a broom, known as La Befana, who, according to legend, delivers gifts and sweets to good children on the night of January 5th and coal (or dark candy) to those who have misbehaved. Children hang stockings for the Befana and wake up to find what she left. The 6th also coincides with the Epiphany, the arrival of the Three Wise Men. 

Do you have any other Italian traditions you celebrate? Let us know in the comments below! 

Panettone vs. Pandoro: Italy’s Greatest Christmas Debate 

As the changing leaves of October and the rainy season of November leave us behind, there is something increasingly magical about the cool and mystical month of December in Italy. Twinkly lights illuminate city squares and old-school palazzos, shop windows are packed with delicious delicacies and delights, and holiday spirit fills the air. Christmas in Italy is no short of tradition and long, cozy days spent with family and friends. Would it be Italian if food wasn’t the center of the day and conversation? 

From freshly fried fish and stacked layers of lasagna to perfectly crafted tortellini in steamy hot brodo, the savory part of the day is not a miss. But what about the sweet? Sure, there are ricotta-filled cakes that hail from Sicily or lightly fried dough Zeppole from Naples. Still, there is a staple (or two), that all Italians would remiss if they didn’t include at least one on the after-dinner table, and if just so happens to be one of Italy’s biggest culinary debates.

Panettone vs. Pandoro

You may have heard of Panettone or Pandoro before, two Italian Christmas cake-like staples that at first glance seem nearly identical, but are worlds apart. Still, nonetheless, both have become widespread traditions across the Boot and globe. Let’s take a look at the two. 

Panettone, the oldest and maybe the most recognizable thanks to its tall, cupola shape and citrusy aroma, this sweet bread dates back to ancient Roman times (although the “official” recipe was born during the Middle Ages). The name"panettone" derives from the Italian word "panetto," meaning a small loaf of bread, combined with “-one," meaning something large. Therefore "panettone" translates to "big bread." An old wives tale credits the creation of panettone to a young man who was the baker to the Duke of Milan in the 15th century and was forced to use leftover ingredients, including floud, butter, and candied fruits. Although panettone comes in decadent variations and flavors like pistachio cream filled or chocolate coated, thanks to commercialization, the tried and true version is flakey and lightly sweet, containing candied orange, lemon zest, and raisins, giving it a distinct fruity flavor.

Panettone’s rival, Pandoro, has a much more clear storyline. Hailing from Verona, the recipe we see used in bakery shops is nearly always credited to a Veronese pastry chef who created the first commercial version in 1894.  The name"pandoro" comes from the Italian words "pan" (bread) and "d’oro" (of gold), attributed to its rich, golden color and decadent ingredients. Made with simple ingredients like flour, sugar, eggs, and butter, unlike panettone, Pandoro does not include candied fruits or nuts, offering a more simple, buttery flavor and it is baked in a star-shaped mold, reflecting the magical spirit of the winter holidays. 

So the million dollar question is this: are you team Panettone or team Pandoro? While both breads are cherished during the holiday season, their distinct historical, geographical, cultural, and culinary factors influence preference (not to mention, Italians are always up for a bit of cheery debate!). 

Enjoying at Home

Making pandoro and panettone, well, is not for the faint of heart. It is one of the most difficult Italian recipes to master, so leave it to the masters. If you want to incorporate some Italian magic into your dessert table, local artisanal Italian shops in person or online are sure to make your Christmas panettone and pandoro wish come true. 

Regardless if you’re team panettone or team pandoro, enjoy each the Italian way, after festive meals accompanied with sweet wine or a freshly brewed shot of espresso. 

Author Gabriela R. Proietti